Because the “blowing” of a fuse results from the overloading of an electrical circuit, many people think that the fuse box is a dangerous area to approach, as it controls the flow of so much electricity. Nothing could be further from the truth. Of course, it is always advisable to approach electrical apparatus with caution; but there should be no fear whatsoever attached to the common chore of changing a burnt fuse.

As far as fuses are concerned, the cardinal rule is “be prepared.” That is to say, you should make a list of all the different types and sizes of fuses in your fuse box, and make sure you have three or four of each on hand at all times. Because if one “blows” on Sunday, you’ll be sitting in the dark till Monday.

Now, if you really want to be secure when working around your fuse box, take this advice, and make the following chart:

1. Make a diagram of your fuse or circuit breaker box
2. Number each fuse or circuit breaker, both on the chart and beside each in the box, making sure that your numbers correspond exactly with one another.
3. Turn on all the lights in your apartment or house.
4. Now, one at a time, unscrew each fuse or trip each circuit breaker and see which lights go off.
5. Mark down beside each fuse or circuit breaker in your chart the area of the house or apartment each controls.
6. Once you have completed this, tape your chart beside the box in plain site.
7. From then on, if the power fails in your bedroom, you’ll know exactly which fuse or circuit breaker has disconnected and must be corrected by consultining the chart.

Procedure for Re-Setting a Fuse or Circuit Breaker

1. When a current fails in a section of your house, consult the chart prepared above.
2. While standing on wooden platform (it is recommended to stand on something that doesn’t conduct electricity), unscrew that fuse and examine with a flashlight. You will see a deep, gray “cloud” on the surface of the fuse.
3. Replace fuse with one of identical amperage. Never, never, under any circumstances, replace one fuse with another of higher amperage. It is the greatest fire hazard.
4. If a circuit-breaker needs to be re-set, trip it to the “off” position and then to the “on” position. Power should be restored.
5. If fuses and circuit breakers repeatedly disconnect, consult a professional electrician.

STEP 1: Find a Level Place to Stop
You can change a tire if you’re parked on an incline, but it’s much more difficult and dangerous! So if you find yourself with a flat on a hill, drive slowly to level ground. Put the transmission into “park” (or put the gear shift into reverse if you have a manual transmission) and set the hand brake. Now you’re ready to go looking for the tools you’ll need. If in doubt, take several minutes to check your owner’s manual. If, at any point in changing a flat tire, you feel like you’re in over your head — don’t sweat it. Just grab the nearest cell phone and call for help.

STEP 2: Chock a Wheel
To provide an extra degree of safety, it’s a good idea to put something on either side of the wheel diagonally opposite the flat tire. Since our flat is the left rear tire, chock the right front. Chocking means to put something large, like a brick or a large rock right in front of and right behind the tire to keep it from moving.

STEP 3: Lay Everything Out
Got a digital camera or a cell phone that can store photos? Snap a couple of pictures of how everything goes back together, and you can look at the screen for guidance when you’re ready to put everything back in its right place when the time comes.

STEP 4: Loosen the Damaged Tire’s Lug Nuts
You probably won’t be able to loosen the lug nuts by hand (since they were probably tightened by a mechanic with an impact or air-powered wrench. But you can do it by foot. Find the lug wrench (the wrench that fits on the lug nuts). Put the wrench on any lug nut with the handle facing to the left since you want to turn the wrench counter clockwise (remember righty tighty, lefty loosey). Then stand on the end of the wrench handle. You may have to bounce up and down a bit.

Once it moves you’ll probably be able to turn the wrench by hand. If not, re-position the wrench and step on it again. Loosen all the nuts this way — but only loosen each of them a couple of turns. Do not remove any of the nuts yet.

STEP 5: Jack Up Your Car
Find the correct location on your car to place the jack. Your owner’s manual will have a diagram. Expand the jack by hand, until it’s as tall as it can be and still fit under the car. This’ll save you work later. Now, you’re about to raise the car — or at least one corner of it. Insert the jack handle into the jack according to the instructions.

Keep everyone else clear of the car while it’s on the jack. The car is not terribly stable while it’s jacked up. Start cranking. Take your time. There’s no hurry. Before you know it, the corner of the car will be off the ground. You don’t need to go 20 feet off the ground. All you need to do is get the wheel off the pavement.

STEP 6: Take Off the Damaged Tire
Now it’s time to remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. Fortunately, you’ve already loosened them, so it should be easy. Take the wheel off, and here’s what you’ve got — the brake rotor, caliper, brake pads — you can even see the strut springs, control arms and brake lines. Put the wheel down in a safe location away from traffic. Don’t put it in the car just yet, either.

Once you’ve removed the lug nuts, put them in a safe place where you know you’ll be able to find them ten minutes from now. Your pocket is a good place. Inside the hubcap, if you have one, is a good place. Scattered around you on the road is not a good place.

Step 7: Install the Spare Tire
Line the lugs up with the holes in the wheel and gently slide it on, being careful not to bang the threads on the lugs. The lugs are those 5 things that you’re sliding the wheel onto. Check your owner’s manual for the details. In most cases, you’ll find a maximum speed and travel distance for the spare. Not all spare tires are labelled “Temporary Use Only” — but most are.

Now loosely screw on the nuts. Before you’ve tightened them completely, lower down the car. Now lower the jack and allow the corner of the car to come firmly back onto the ground. Now that the car is firmly on the ground, it’s time to tighten the lug nuts. This has to be done in several steps.

Step 1: Tighten all 5 nuts by hand in no particular order (known in the trade as “hand tight”).
Step 2: Tighten all 5 using the wrench and your hands only — also in no particular order.
Step 3: Now you’re going to really tighten — and the order IS important. Pick any nut to start with. Put the wrench on the nut — as you did when removing the nuts — but this time with the handle facing to the right.

Stand on the end of the wrench and bounce up and down. If the wrench handle ends up in an almost vertical position, reposition it so it’s horizontal and bounce on it again. Continue until it doesn’t move any more.

Now you repeat the previous steps — but in a particular order.

1. The second nut you tighten is the one that’s “diagonally” opposite (there is no nut that is really diagonally opposite). There are two that are sort of diagonally opposite — pick either one. Follow the steps on the previous page.
2. The next one to tighten is the one that’s (sort of) diagonally opposite from number two.
3. And the next is sort of diagonally opposite from number three, etc., etc., until you’ve done all five.
4. Then go around the circle one last time to make absolutely sure that they are all as tight as you can get them.

Now we’re ready to really tighten those lug nuts! You don’t want them to come off when you’re driving, do you? Holding firmly onto the car, use your body weight to fully tighten each lug nut.

STEP 8: Clean Up After Yourself!
Do yourself a favor, and don’t toss everything in the trunk of your car. Put it back exactly the way you found it, so it’s there the next time you need it — and so it doesn’t rattle every time you go over a bump, and slowly, inexorably drive you totally bonkers.

For more DIY guides on cars, visit cartalk.com

Garbage disposals are efficient, safe and virtually trouble-free devices that anyone who knows how to use a screwdriver and wrench can install in a few hours. Batch-feed models, touted for their safety, are similar to a food processor. Once it is filled with waste, it’s activated when the sink plug is twisted into the sink opening. Whereas, a continuous-feed disposal is operated by a switch on the wall or cabinet, and runs continuously while waste is fed into the grinding chamber.

Cold water must be kept running while a disposal is in operation. The water cools and lubricates the grinding parts and helps to send the pulverized waste down the drain.

Step 1. Remove Drain
Remove the existing waste (drain) pipes from the sink strainer to the threaded fitting at the wall or floor (stubout). If the removed piping is plastic with compression (threaded-type) fittings, you can possibly reuse it. But if the pipe is welded or metal, throw it away. Unscrew the fittings by hand or with groove-joint pliers and use a hacksaw to cut the welded pipe.

Tip: Catch Standing Water
Place a plastic dishpan under the drain trap to catch standing water as you either remove the drain plug, if there is one, or disconnect the trap.

Step 2. Replace Sink Strainer
Remove the sink strainer fitting that is secured to the sink bowl. One type of strainer is held with a large lock nut, but there are types that use three screws. In its place, install the flange that comes with the disposer. Apply plumber’s putty under its lip to form a seal with the sink bowl.

Step 3. Install Mounting Assembly
Slip the mounting assembly gasket and mounting and retaining rings over the neck of the sink flange and tighten the screws. First tighten one, then the others a little at a time until the gasket and flange are both tight to the sink bowl. Remove excess putty from around the flange inside the sink.

Step 4. Mount Disposal
Before you mount the disposal, make the wiring connections at the disposal. Be sure to allot enough cable to extend to the power source (see Step 6). Reattach the drain elbow. If you have a dishwasher, prepare the disposal drain following the manufacturer’s instructions. Slip the disposal’s slotted flange over the mounting bolts.

Step 5. Connect Plastic Waste Pipe
Connect a two-piece tubular P-trap to the drain elbow and the drain fitting at the wall (stubout). As needed, cut the P-trap and rotate both the trap section of the P-trap and the disposal. Complete tightening the waste pipe fittings and the disposal. Connect any dishwasher hose to the disposal’s drain fitting with a stainless steel hose clamp.

Step 6. Power Connection
If you have electrical wiring experience and plan to make the power connection to the disposal, be sure to first turn off the power before beginning the work.

Disposals need to connect to a grounded 20-amp circuit. The steps in order to connect power differ with each type of disposal. For example, continuous-feed disposals are wired to an on/off switch located on a wall or in the sink cabinet. Whereas a batch-feed disposal has its own integral switch and is hard-wired or plugged directly to the wall outlet. It is best to have an electrician handle this part of the job if you are not knowledgeable about local code requirements and basic electrical wiring.

Tip: Air Vents and Disposal Jams
Once in a while you will find that the air vent on the sink will overflow when the dishwasher is running. This is because the disposal has thrown waste into the dishwasher drain hose and has partially clogged it. When this happens, remove the hose from the disposal, clean it out with a hanger and replace the hose.

If the disposal ever jams, quickly turn it off. Use the end of a wooden mop wedged against the opening of the disposal to loosen the blades that are located at the bottom of the disposal. In some instances, the reset button (usually located at the bottom of the disposal) will have to be pushed in order to return power.

Never discard rice, nut shells, pits, or fibrous waste into the disposal. And, for continuous-feed disposals, never force large volumes of anything at one time since it could cause a drain clog.

Before you get started:

As a natural product, floors are manufactured in accordance with accepted industry standards which permit a grading tolerance of 5%. Due to this being a natural product, 5% – 10% wastage may be produced during the fitting process and still remain within specification. The product should be acclimatised for at least 2 days in its expected environment prior to installing. Do not open packs until immediately before installation. If you require to inspect the goods before fitting, completely reseal the packaging immediately afterwards to retain the flexibility of the boards.

Some boards may exhibit minor bowing due to the lamination process however this disappears during the installation procedure. Do not install any obvious faulty pieces; these can normally be exchanged if they are outside the normally allowed 5% – 10% wastage.

Timber is a living material. Due to its hygroscopic properties it either absorbs or releases moisture. For that reason, a minimum gap of 1 cm must be left between the boards and the walls of a room and also around fixtures like pipes. This allows the floor to shrink and expand. For floors that are longer or wider than 20 ft, this tolerance gap should be increased by 1.5 mm per extra 3 ft. For floors that are longer or wider than 40 ft, a movement joint should be incorporated.

Packages must be stored in a dry place and only opened immediately prior to fitting. This is required to prevent possible short-term humidity changes from affecting the boards. Never store the product on its side or end. When removing parquet boards from packing, the boards must not be bent or the varnish may crack. Take special care.

A concrete sub floor can be levelled with self-levelling compound or screed. A wooden sub floor can be levelled using a sander. If the sub floor is an existing wood floor, ensure prior to installing that there is adequate support and, if necessary, use 1/2 – 3/4 inch plywood preferably with tongue and groove joints to provide extra rigidity between the parquet and the wooden sub floor.

The monitoring of humidity in newly constructed premises is vital. To avoid damage and to achieve the best possible end result, the relative humidity of the ambient air must be 40 – 60 %, both during installation and thereafter. Measuring the relative humidity of the sub floor prior to laying the boards is of great importance. When the floor is laid in newly constructed premises and the sub floor is recently cast concrete, it is essential to use a moisture barrier (e.g. 0.2 mm thick plastic membrane with joints overlapping 8 inches or with joints taped).

Always use an appropriate underlay designed for this type of flooring unless you are fully bonding to the sub floor. If the flooring is to be permanently glued to the sub floor, use a professional installer.

Where there is under floor heating, use only appropriate wood flooring detailed by the manufacturer.

A sound insulation layer can be laid under the parquet.

It is advisable to measure the width of the room prior to starting the installation in order to identify the width of the last row to be installed. If the last row seems too narrow, adjust by making the first row narrower, to achieve a professional-looking finish.

Glue has to be spread evenly on the top edge, not on the bottom, of the female groove. Some manufacturers may vary always check.

End joints of adjoining rows have to be at least 20 inches apart.

When tapping parquet boards together, a piece of parquet must never be used as a tapping block because this or other inappropriate methods may damage the edge of the top layer lamina or lacquer. We recommend a professional proprietary tapping block. Always use professional straps to draw the boards tightly together for a final fit. Cut out pieces with glaring defects and it is normal practice to use stain putty or filler stick for small defect correction or minor dimension differences.

Glue squeezed out from the joints when tapping the boards together must be wiped away immediately with a damp cloth.

If thresholds are installed by screwing them directly through the parquet boards, a gap of 1 cm has to be allowed between the screws and board edges.

Skirting boards installed after laying the wood flooring have to be nailed onto the wall only, not onto the installed parquet.

Laying wood flooring should be the final phase in any premises where several jobs are being carried out. However if after laying the parquet other work remains to be done, carefully protect the installed parquet with porous material such as fibreboard or corrugated cardboard.

Installation instructions - 1/2 inch engineered wood flooring

1/2 inch engineered flooring is laid either as a floating floor or is glued permanently to the sub floor using glue with a high solid matter content. It is recommended that you use a professional installer if you are gluing to the sub floor.

The installation surface must be dry, solid and level, e.g. concrete, plywood or an existing wooden floor are suitable sub floors. Parquet can be installed also on vinyl floor covering. The laying surface has to be thoroughly cleaned before installation.

Humidity of the installation surface must be suitable as detailed above. The relative humidity of the ambient air has to be 40 – 60 %.

Preparation (floating floor)

1. Clean the sub floor and check that it is even – a length of parquet is ideal for this purpose (+/-2 mm within 6.5 ft. distance allowed).

2. If the unevenness exceeds the limits given in step 1, use a self-levelling compound or screed, or for wooden floors use a sander.

3. Saw the bottom of the doorframe to allow for the parquet board and insulation to fit under it.

4. On the concrete sub floors spread a plastic membrane and soundproofing insulation if required. Always use an underlay with the appropriate joint tape.

Installation (floating floor)

5. Lay the boards to face the incoming daylight. If the sub floor is an existing wooden plank floor, lay the parquet crosswise to the planks. Lay the first row of boards with female grooves against the wall and keep the board from the wall approx. 1 cm with the help of the wooden spacers provided.

6. Attach the final board of the first row with the help of the laying jemmy. Tap the professional jemmy to close the final header joint and create a 1 cm space at the narrow end of the board to set the wooden spacers in the same way as you have already done along the long edge.

7. Squeeze some glue on the end joints and all the way along the joint lengthwise.

8. Squeeze some glue on the top edge of the female groove. Tap the boards together using a hammer and professional tapping block. Professional compression straps should be used to complete the joint.

9. Start the next row with the leftover piece from the previous row. Always ensure that the end joints of adjoining rows are at least 20 inches apart.

10. Tap the boards together with the help of the tapping block. In order to avoid gaps between the end joints, fit the next board from the open side as shown. I.e. fit header joint tightly: working from open end. Tap down the length working toward the header joint. Tongues and grooves must be tightly fitted and interlocking using pva glue to all adjacent flooring boards use compression straps to complete the joint and avoid damage.

11. Drill holes to accommodate pipes and cut the piece off with a saw. When the board is in position, glue the sawn-out section back in its place and cover with pipe ferrules.

12. Install the last row using a piece of parquet as a guide.

13. When the glue has dried, remove the spacers and fix the skirting boards or scotia. Do not set them too tightly against the floor that is being fitted.

Leave overnight for the glue to dry.

It is recommended that floors, especially engineered flooring laid in kitchen or high traffic areas, are re-coated with a further coat or coats of lacquer before general use. Further advice on click fit flooring is usually included in the manufacturers packs.

Many energy efficiency measures are easy to install and you can save much more if you haven’t paid out for a  contractor. This article describes how to carry out some of the more simple DIY jobs that will make your home more comfortable and cheaper to run.

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DRAUGHT PROOFING

Draught proofing is one of the most inexpensive but most effective ways of making your home more energy efficient and more comfortable. As much as 20% of heat can be lost through ill-fitting doors and windows. The purpose of draught proofing is not to exclude fresh air from your home but to control it and ensure that you are comfortable. Your home needs fresh air to keep condensation at bay and to ensure the safe operation of fuel burning appliances. Therefore:

1. Check that all bricks are unblocked and the flues/chimneys are clear.

2. Omit draught proofing from one window in rooms containing boilers, gas fires or open fires. This is to ensure that there is enough air for the fuel to burn safely.

3. If you use bottled-gas or paraffin heaters, omit draught proofing from all the windows in the house.

4. Omit draught proofing from kitchens, bathrooms and any rooms that suffer from condensation or mold growth.

Preparation
Measure the perimeter of the doors and windows to work out the quantity of materials needed. A bottom door brush and letter box cover will be needed for all appropriate outside doors. Clean and dry all the window and door rebates before applying any adhesive product.

Work sequence
1. For draught proofing doors and windows there is a very wide choice of materials. The cheaper option for wooden casement doors and windows will be to use a self-adhesive foam strip which sticks to the rebate and compresses to eliminate draughts when closed.

2. Draught proofing made of metal or plastic strips with a brush or wiper seal down one side can also be used. Although more expensive than self adhesive foam, they will last a lot longer. The material needs to be cut to length, placed on the frame and pushed against the opening section of the door or window. Then nail the strip in place. Always have pins within 25mm of the end of a draught strip.

3. The bottom of the outside doors will need draught proofing too. A bottom door brush should be cut to equal the door width, less around a quarter of an inch. Position the carrier and check that it doesn’t hit the door frame as you open the door. If it does hit the door, cut it shorter. You will then need to close both ends of the carrier to stop the brush slipping out. Put the brush in place so the seal rests in place on the floor covering and fix in place.

4. Fit a letterbox cover to the inside front door making sure that letters can still pass through easily. Fit a key hole cover too that will prevent air from flowing through the key hole.

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LOFT INSULATION

By modern building standards loft insulation should be 8” thick, so if yours is 4” or less it will need a top up. Heat will also be lost through the joists, so remember to lay the top 4” of insulation across them. Loft insulation is an easy and cost effective energy efficiency measure you can take. Inadequate loft insulation could quite literally be sending your heating bills through the roof.

Preparation
1. Give yourself plenty of room to work safely. If possible empty your loft space completely.

2. Measure:
a.  The space between the joists (to determine the width of quilt needed);
b.  The depth of the joists. The depth of the joists is important because if these are 4”, for example, to lay 8” of insulation you may have to build up the joists and create a boarded area to retain access to all of the tanks in the loft.
c.  The length and width of your loft – multiply these together to get the approximate area you need to cover.
d.  Measure the size of the loft hatch to ensure that you will be able to get the packs of insulation through it.

Safety Tips
1. Ensure that you have adequate lighting so that you can work safely in the loft.

2. Always use crawling boards when working in the loft and never step on the ceiling between joists.

3. Identify potential hazards (electrical cables, loose boards, etc.). Check that the loft is ventilated from spaces at the eaves or from ventilators in the roof itself. If not, then this has to be rectified before the loft is inulated or you may get condensation damage in your loft.

4. Mineral wool fibers can irritate exposed skin so cover up. Wear gloves (rubber ones are fine), a dust-proof face mask and goggles. Squeezing the bags of insulation through a small loft-hatch releases fibers, so wear protectie clothing, a mask and goggles if you have to do this.

5. Never tear the quilt as this releases more fibers. It is best to use a knife to cut it, but be careful not to cut wires by accident. Don’t use a knife with a metal handle.

Work Sequence
1. Lay the insulation starting in the eaves at the corner furthest from the loft hatch. Do not tuck the quilt right into the eaves but stop short so that there is at least a 2” air gap. Gently press the quilt down to stop air movement below the quilt.

2. Where cables cross the joists, cut the quilt with a knife and butt the two ends together under the obstruction. Wherever possible position the electrical cables above the insulation but be careful not to force cables out of the way.

3. Do not insulate under the cold water tank – lead the quilt up the side of the tank and lap the tank jacket over the quilt ends. This is to allow warmth from your home to reach the tank and thus prevent it from freezing. Where extractor fans or recessed lights are fitted through the ceiling, protruding into the loft space, trim the quilt around the fitting leaving a gap of 6” all round.

4. Insulate the hatch cover with either rigid polystyrene or a piece of quilt enclosed in polythene (the quilt wrapping will do). Either of these can be held in place with broad headed nails. Draught proof the loft hatch using a compression seal as described in the draught proofing section.

5. Once the loft is insulated it will be colder than before (as it will receive less heat from your home) so you must insulate all pipes and tanks in the loft to avoid them freezing. Follow the instructions for the lagging of hot water pipes found later in this Guide. If insulating with pre-formed foam is difficult, another method is to wrap a section of loft insulation around the pipe(s). The quilt must be securely tied at both ends and in the middle where necessary.

6. For the cold water tank, ready-made jackets of mineral fiber quilt enclosed in polythene are available. Or use loft quilt wrapped in polythene or rigid polystyrene slabs. If the tank has no lid one can be made out of polystyrene. Otherwise buy one and insulate it along with the rest of the tank. Use broad tapes to tie the insulation in place – thin cord may cut through the insulation. If you are fitting a ready-made jacket, place the hinge side away from the inlet pipe. Lay the jacket over the tank so that the sides are fully covered and secure in place with tapes as shown. Make sure that there are no loose fibers.

Grants
Households in receipt of state benefit may be eligible for a government grant which can help cover the cost of making your home more energy efficient.

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LAGGING THE HOT WATER CYLINDER

Lagging the hot water cylinder is one of the easiest ways to save money in the home. The insulation on the hot water cylinder should be at least 3” thick and be in good condition.

Preperation
1. Turn off the system and allow the cylinder and pipes to cool before you carry out the work. An old jacket can be left on and the new one placed over the top.

2. Measure your hot water cylinder and buy a jacket the correct size.

Work Sequence
1. Tie the tops of the jacket segments tightly around the pipe at the top of the cylinder and place them evenly around so that the cylinder is totally covered. Pipes from the cylinder and any thermostat or immersion heads should be between segments. Elsewhere the segments should overlap slightly. Do not cover electric cables.

2. Fix the jacket in place with the bands provided as shown, making sure that the fixing straps do not compress the insulation too much as this will reduce its insulating qualities. Check that there isn’t a gap of more than 3/4” from the bottom of the jacket to the bottom of the cylinder. The cupboard will still be warm enough to air clothes after the cylinder and pipes have been lagged.

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LAGGING HOT WATER PIPES

This saves energy by reducing heat loss and can easily be done at the same time as insulating your hot water cylinder. It also saves water as you don’t have to have the hot tap on for so long before the water runs hot.

Preperation
1. Turn off the system and allow the pipes to cool before you carry out the work.

2. Remove any or damaged lagging.

3. Insulate between the boiler and the hot water cylinder, all hot water pipes (especially the first 3 ft length of hot water pipe from the hot water cylinder towards the taps), and any hot or cold water pipes in the loft or other cold part of the house (under the floor).

4. Measure the length of pipes to be covered. There are various kinds of insulation available. The most convenient kind is pre-formed foam tubes. 1” is the minimum thickness you should install. If it is not practical to use pre-formed foam of this thickness because of awkward positions of pipes, loft insulation material can be used. You will need suitable tape to seal the splits and to join sections; some systems use purpose made clips. You can buy pre-cut packs or use around valves etc.

Work Sequence
1. Apply the insulation to the pipes. Try to avoid leaving small gaps where pipes are fixed to joists in the loft or pass through walls. Be particularly careful at junctions and bends.

2. If using foam tubes seal the split with suitable tape or clips.

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REFLECTIVE RADIATOR FOIL

This is like a sheet of aluminium foil, often with a foam backing, placed behind a radiator. It reflects heat into the room away from outside walls. It is particularly effective for solid walled houses and to reduce heat loss behind curtains.

Turn off the system and allow the radiators to cool before you carry out the work.

Work Sequence
1. Measure the areas of radiators on external walls and the positions of the brackets holding them.

2. Cut the radiator foil to fit behind the radiator so that it sits over the radiator brackets. Pre-cut reflectors are available.

3. Fit the reflector behind the radiator, fixing it to the wall with double sided sticky pads or heavy duty fungicidal wallpaper paste. Use a wooden batten to smooth the reflector against the wall.

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SHELVES ABOVE RADIATORS

Placing a shelf above a radiator works well in conjunction with reflective foil to help create warm currents of air inside a room.

Be sure to check for hidden pipes and electrical cables before you begin drilling into any walls.

Preperation
You must be careful to use a material that will not warp or discolour with the heat from the radiator. Commercially produced shelves are available that are designed to withstand the heat.

Work Sequence
1. Measure the length of the radiator and cut the shelving material  (about 4-6” wide) to size.

2. Measure up from the floor to about 4” above the top of the radiator at each end and draw a horizontal pencil line between the two marks. This marks the position of the base of the shelf. Mark about 4” in from each end.

3.  Hold one bracket in place and mark the position of the screw holes.  Use a masonry drill to make holes and insert wall plugs in them.

4. Position the shelf on the bracket and place a spirit level on it. Move the shelf until it is level. Position the second bracket beneath it, mark its position and fix in place as before.

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BLEEDING YOUR RADIATOR

It is easy to tell if a radiator needs bleeding. When the heating is on, feel the top and the bottom of the radiator. If the top is cooler than the bottom then there is air in the radiator preventing the hot water from rising to the top. This means that your radiator is not putting out as much heat as it should.

Preperation
1. Turn off your heating system so that the pump is not running and the water is cool.

2. To bleed your radiator you will need a radiator key. If you haven’t got one you can get one at any hardware store. You should also protect your carpets as the water being released from the radiator will be dirty.

Work Sequence
1. Get a cloth and place it under the bleed nipple which you’ll find at one end and gently turn the key – watch out for hot water though. The idea is that the water pressure pushes the air out of the radiator.

2. Open the valve just enough to let the air out,but be very careful not to completely unscrew it. You’ll hear a hissing sound as the air releases.

3. When the air is all gone the hissing stops and water will run out. At this point tighten the valve.

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HEATING CONTROLS

If you stay in control of your heating system, you can stay in control of your heating bills and your comfort. Adequate heating controls should be able to give you heating and hot water where you want it when you want it.

Detailed below is one heating control improvement that the more experienced DIY expert might like to consider.

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HOT WATER CYLINDER

If your hot water system has no form of time control you may well be keeping water hot when it is not being used which wastes energy and money. This will be particularly true of on peak electric immersion heaters.

If you have an electric immersion heater, time clocks can be used to set the water heating periods and limit the duration of the heating. Both digital and mechanical time clocks are available from electrical stores and some hardware stores.

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ENERGY SAVING LIGHTBULBS

Did you know that switching an ordinary 100W bulb for an energy saving one could save you up to $13 a year on your electricity bills? And did you know that you wouldn’t need to change it again for around five years? So imagine what you could save, year after year, if all your bulbs were energy saving.

You have probably seen energy saving light bulbs in the grocery or hardware stores next to the ordinary bulbs. They use advanced ‘electronic’ technology to produce highly efficient light, using only a quarter of the electricity that ordinary bulbs use. They also last 8 times longer, saving you money year after year.

Like ordinary bulbs, energy saving light bulbs come in either a standard bayonet or screw fitting, so they should fit easily into any light fitting in your home. They also come in a variety of shapes and sizes so you can
choose one that works best with your light fittings.

Installation of Tile
Qualified ceramic tile contractors will agree that the traditional mesh and cement method of installation is the best choice. This involves the application of a vapour barrier over the subfloor, then a layer of wire lath, covered by a layer of a sand and cement mix (allowed to set fully), over which your tile will be installed with a premium polymer modified setting mortar. Floor tiles can be laid directly over a substrate of level, cured unpainted concrete.

Using a ½” plywood subfloor or ½” cement board over your solid plywood floor in lieu of wire lath and cement may be used in smaller areas.

A premium polymer modified floor mix should be used to install floor tiles over either of these surfaces.

No matter what method you choose, be sure the subfloor is first screwed to the joists every 4” to 6” to ensure it is solid.

Wall tiles in wet areas should be installed over ½” cement board. Wall tiles in dry areas can be installed over primed drywall.

Countertop tiles can be installed over cement board or ¾” plywood.

Layout
Walls and floors are rarely straight, so don’t just start at the floor or wall edge. Walk into the room a few times noting what you see first. This is where you’ll want the cleanest finish so try to have full tiles here. Snap two chalk lines at right angles to each other, so they intersect at the centre of your floor or wall area. This centres the installation, giving you straight lines to work with.

Start at the center and lay a row of loose tiles to determine where cuts need to be. You can avoid cuts by moving tiles slightly off center, and or opening or closing grout lines. When cutting tiles, score the tile only once and press firmly for a good break.

Setting The Tiles
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for mixing the adhesive. Only mix what can be used in 20 minutes. Holding a ¼” x ¼” square notched trowel at a 30 to 45 degree angle, firmly comb the adhesive onto the floor. Trowel mortar over approximately 5 to 10 square feet at a time. Working outward from the centre, set each tile with a pressing and slight twisting action. Do not slide them! Leave approximately 1/8” to 3/16” between tiles for grouting. Tap firmly for a secure bond. Wipe any mortar off the tile surface as you go with a warm damp  sponge. Stay off the tiles for at least 12 hours. Keep space between tiles clean and free of mortar or it will telegraph through your grouting color tomorrow.

Setting Wall Tiles
Follow the same layout instructions as for floor tiles. Holding a 3/16” v-notched trowel at a 30 to 45 degree angle, spread adhesive over a small working area. Set each tile into place and press firmly. Allow any glue to dry, then scrape it off carefully using a utility knife or razor blade.

Grouting
Wait 24 hours after installing the tiles before grouting. Mix grout with water until it has a smooth consistency like cake icing or peanut butter. Only mix enough grout that can be used in 15 – 20 minutes.

Scoop grout onto the tile surface using a rubber float. Move the grout into the joint spaces using a diagonal motion. Go over the area repeatedly, working the grout into the joints making sure they are completely filled and packed firmly.

The grout dries quickly so wipe the tile surface clean using a damp, well rung-out sponge and clean water. Change the water frequently and be sure to wipe all excess grout off the tiles before moving on to the next section. If the grout dries on the tiles it will leave a haze and cannot be removed easily.

Grout sealers are recommended especially when using a light coloured grout. The grout must cure before sealing, so you must wait approximately 2 weeks. Do not let sealer dry on the tile as it will not come off.

Silicone all areas where two tile surfaces meet, where the tile meets the tub or countertops, and where two vertical walls meet. This will better compensate for expansion or movement at these joints.

For finishing touches, plastic and metal trims are available to cap any visible raw edges of wall and tiles or to provide a transition between tile and other flooring. These must be installed as you place the tiles as they fit under the exposed edge of the tile.

Helpful Hints
Tiles come in dye lots, so colors can vary slightly between boxes. Use the tiles out of several boxes as you’re laying them to mask differences over a larger area. Check tiles thoroughly before beginning installation. Most warrantees do not cover imperfections after the tile has been installed. Laying the tiles out in a “dry” installation is an excellent way of previewing and mixing the shade variations.

The adhesive should be the consistency of mayonnaise, standing in peaks but gradually starting to level out. It should not be crumbly or too runny. It should stand up in the ridges of your trowel but not be stiff.

Mix grout to a peanut butter consistency – smooth and thoroughly blended. There shouldn’t be any lumps or dry patches.

Silicone all places where different surfaces meet.

Use the proper adhesive for the job. Never use wall tiles on the shower sill. Use a marble or corian sill instead. Overhang ¼” on both sides and tilt in toward the drain. Remove and replace silicone at least once a year.

Materials/Tool Checklist
Tile Cutter
Sponge
Nippers
Rubber
Straight Edge
Bucket
Rubber Float
¼” Notched or V-Notched Trowel
Chalk and Cord Level

For more help with tiling or to purchase tile related products, visit: http://www.startilecentre.com/

This explains how to make a small, silent, air compressor from an old refrigerator, dehumidifier or air conditioner. For this example, I used an old water cooler.

Before building your own air compressor make sure you understand what is involved. Working with compressed air is extremely dangerous and could be fatal.

You will need a compressor switch with an unloading valve. An adjustable switch would be first choice. It will allow you to decide at what pressure the pump turns on an off. If you don’t use a compressor switch, the pump won’t shut off and something will break. You will also need a 1-way check valve. Both are very important.

Look inside the refrigerator, the big black lump is the compressor. There are 3 Copper tubes coming out of the compressor. One is plugged, forget that one. The larger of the other 2 is the intake, it can be cut off where convenient. The smaller of the tubes is the pressure side. It probably steps up to approx. 1/4″ diameter after about 6″. You need to cut the 1/4″ diameter tube, leaving approx 3/4″, and install a T fitting. Compression fittings are available at most hardware stores. The second side of the T goes to the unloader switch. Use a plastic tube the correct diameter. The check valve goes on the third side of the T. The check valve will allow air to flow one way, not the other. There should be an arrow on the valve. Install the check valve so that air can come out of the pump, and through the check valve, but can’t go back in.

Once the system is pressurized, the pressure switch turns the pump off, and the unloader valve releases the pressure upstream of the check valve. If you don’t do it this way, the compressor isn’t powerful enough to restart until the pressure has dropped well below 20 psi. From the check valve, I run the air through the small radiator that came with the water cooler. If you don’t have one, don’t worry about it. It also came with a thermostatic switch that controls a fan. When the pump gets too warm, the fan draws air across the pump and blows through the radiator. Again, if you don’t have one, don’t worry about it.

Exiting the radiator, the air goes through the compressor switch to the moisture trap and regulator. The moisture trap collects any oil and water vapor. The regulator controls the output pressure. I use a small moisture trap and regulator from Home Depot. The compressor switch turns the pump off at 120 psi and turns it on at 80 psi or lower. 110 volts from the wall goes to one side of the compressor switch, the 2 wires from the compressor go to the other side of the switch. And that’s it.

A small tank wouldn’t be a bad idea. I recently added a large moisture trap after the radiator to act as a small tank. A 150 psi pop off valve would be a very good safety feature. Most real compressors have them. Make sure your compressor switch has an unloader valve. It looks like an air fitting on the side of the small black switch box. And don’t forget the check valve. Any industrial supplier that sells pneumatics should have check valves.

I don’t know how long this type of compressor will last without lubrication. They use oil in the Freon to lube the pump. I don’t know how critical this is. It may or may not be a problem.

When you drain the Freon make sure you flush the oil out of the system, or it will get in your paint. I used Brake Kleen. If you are concerned about the environment, take your refrigerator to your local air conditioning guy, to have the Freon drained.

It might not last 100,000 miles but it is very quiet and will deliver more than enough pressure and volume for airbrushing, or cleaning small parts. And how hard is it to find an old refrigerator?

Making the right decisions about carpet starts with having the facts. That is why the Carpet and Rug Institute (CRI) sponsors scientific research and gathers data from independent sources to help professionals and the public make educated flooring choices. Visit carpet-rug.org to learn more.

Issue
Carpet is an economical choice for commercial buildings, schools, health care facilities government buildings and houses and will maintain its condition if kept clean and dry.

What You Should Know
Carpet can be 65 percent less expensive to maintain than hard surface flooring. While buying and installing hard surface flooring appears less expensive than carpet in the short run, the true cost of labor, supplies, and equipment over an average 22-year lifespan makes carpet a more cost-effective choice.

Hard surface floors require two-and-a-half times more cleaning than carpet annually. Hard surface cleaning supplies are about seven times more expensive than carpet cleaning supplies.

CRI created the Seal of Approval testing and certification program to help customers identify carpet cleaning products that clean effectively without harming the carpet. For a list of these products, click on Seal of Approval at carpet-rug.org.

Independent testing shows that many cleaning detergents and spot removers clean no better than water. Worse, they can leave a sticky residue that attracts soil at a faster rate. There also are big differences in the soil removal capability of vacuums and extractors.

Choose vacuums that bear the CRI Green Label to effectively remove soil while maintaining good air quality. Vacuuming is the single most effective means of keeping carpet clean; 90 to 95 percent of all dry soil by weight can be removed from carpet by following a routine schedule.

Carpet also requires periodic deep extraction cleaning. Seal of Approval deep cleaning extractors and systems (equipment and solutions) effectively remove soil and also recover most of the water or solution from the carpet.

Has your pet left “scent marks” of urination and/or defecation on your floor or furniture? To successfully re-train your pet to avoid those areas, follow these basic steps:

Find all soiled areas using your nose and eyes. A black-light bulb will usually show even old urine stains. Turn out all lights in the room; use the black-light to identify soiled areas and lightly outline the areas with chalk. Clean the soiled areas appropriately to remove the odors (see below). Make the areas unattractive and/or unavailable. Make the appropriate “bathroom” area attractive. Teach your pet the appropriate place to eliminate by using positive reinforcement.

These steps work as a team! In order for your efforts to be successful, you need to follow all of these steps. If you fail to completely clean the area, your other re-training efforts will be useless. As long as your pet can smell that personal scent, he’ll continue to return to the “accident zone.” Even if you can’t smell traces of urine, your pet can. Your most important chore is to remove (neutralize) that odor.

Methods To Avoid
You should avoid using steam cleaners to clean urine odors from carpet or upholstery. The heat will permanently set the odor and the stain by bonding the protein into any man-made fibers. You should also avoid using cleaning chemicals, especially those with strong odors, such as ammonia or vinegar. From your pet’s perspective, these don’t effectively eliminate or cover the urine odor and may actually encourage your pet’s inclination to reinforce the urine scent mark in that area.

To Clean Washable Items
Machine wash as usual, adding a one pound box of baking soda to your regular detergent. If possible, it’s best to air dry these items. If you can still see the stain or smell the urine, machine wash the item again and add an enzymatic cleaner. Be sure to follow the directions carefully. During the re-training period, a good way to discourage your pet from using the bedding is to cover the bed with a vinyl, flannel-backed tablecloth. They’re machine washable, inexpensive and unattractive to your pet.

To Clean Carpeted Areas and Upholstery
Soak up as much of the urine as possible with a combination of newspaper and paper towels. The more fresh urine you can remove before it dries, especially from carpet, the simpler it will be to remove the odor.  Place a thick layer of paper towels on the wet spot and cover that with a thick layer of newspaper. Stand on this padding for about a minute. Remove the padding and repeat the process until the area is barely damp.

If possible, take the fresh, urine-soaked paper towel to the area where it belongs — your cat’s litterbox or your dog’s designated outdoor “bathroom area” — and let your pet see you do it. Don’t act angry when you do this, but try to project a “happy” attitude to your pet.  This will help to remind your pet that eliminating isn’t a “bad” behavior as long as it’s done in the right place.

Rinse the “accident zone” thoroughly with clean, cool water. After rinsing, remove as much of the water as possible by blotting or by using a “wet-vac,” “shop-vac” or “extractor.” If you’ve previously used cleaners or chemicals of any kind on the area, then neutralizing cleaners won’t be effective until you’ve rinsed every trace of the old cleaner from the carpet. Even if you haven’t used chemicals recently, any trace of a non-protein-based substance will weaken the effect of the enzymatic cleaner. The cleaner will use up its “energy” on the old cleaners instead of on the protein stains you want removed.

To remove all traces of old chemicals and clean old or heavy stains in carpeting, consider renting an extractor or wet-vac from a local hardware store.  This machine operates much like a vacuum cleaner and is efficient and economical. Extracting/wet-vac machines do the best job of forcing clean water through your carpet and then forcing the dirty water back out again. When using these machines or cleaners, be sure to follow the instructions carefully. Don’t use any chemicals with these machines – they work much more effectively with plain water.

Once the area is really clean, you should use a high-quality pet odor neutralizer available at pet supply stores. Test the affected surface for staining first, and read and follow the instructions.

If the area still looks stained after it’s completely dry from extracting and neutralizing, try any good carpet stain remover.

If urine has soaked down into the padding underneath your carpet, your job will be more difficult. You may need to remove and replace that portion of the carpet and padding.

Using the suggestions in our aversives, positive reinforcement and housetraining handouts, make the “accident zone” unattractive, the appropriate “bathroom” area attractive, and teach your pet where you want him to eliminate, instead.  The re-training period may take a week or more. Remember, it took time to build the bad habit, and it will take time to replace that habit with a new, more acceptable behavior. Treat your pet with patience and give him a lot of encouragement!

To Clean Floors and Walls
If the wood on your furniture, walls, baseboard or floor is discolored,the varnish or paint has been affected by the acid in the urine. You may need to remove and replace the layer of varnish or paint. Employees at your local hardware or building supply store can help you identify and match your needs with appropriate removers and replacements. Washable enamel paints and some washable wallpapers, may respond favorably to enzymatic cleaners. Read the instructions carefully before using these products and test them in an invisible area.

For more information and other pet related materials, visit www.ddfl.org